The man who started surfing at 80
There’s an old cliché that says that “surfing is for life.” However, we tend to forget about the ones who actually make it happen.
Being old is a gift. It means you’ve made it far in life. You were granted the opportunity to cherish life. Older people are unique human beings.
The alternative to not being old is to die young. And to stop surfing at an early age.
