The effects of onshore and offshore wind on wave shape
Scientists at Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego, California, concluded that offshore wind promotes the creation of barreling waves.
A study published in the Journal of Fluid Mechanics confirms the empirical notion that winds blowing from land to ocean help develop perfect-breaking tubular waves.
Falk Feddersen and his team analyzed the patterns and breaking behavior of waves at the Surf Ranch in Lemoore, Central California.