The effects of onshore and offshore wind on wave shapeについて

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The effects of onshore and offshore wind on wave shape

Scientists at Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego, California, concluded that offshore wind promotes the creation of barreling waves.

A study published in the Journal of Fluid Mechanics confirms the empirical notion that winds blowing from land to ocean help develop perfect-breaking tubular waves.

Falk Feddersen and his team analyzed the patterns and breaking behavior of waves at the Surf Ranch in Lemoore, Central California.

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